DishwashersSlim 18-Inch

Summit LDW18NTA Dishwasher Manual

Setup, everyday use, maintenance and troubleshooting for the 18 in. stainless-tub dishwasher, with verified specifications.

  • Capacity10 place settings
  • Width17.6 in.
  • Water use3 gal/cycle
  • Est. yearly cost$49.46

About the Summit LDW18NTA

Model LDW18NTA from Summit is an 18 in. stainless-tub dishwasher that meets ENERGY STAR efficiency requirements. It is rated for 10 place settings and measures 17.6 in. wide and 21.7 in. deep.

At roughly 18 in. wide, it fits the narrow cabinet openings common in apartments, condos and small kitchens, yet it is still classified as a standard-size dishwasher (eight or more place settings) for federal efficiency rules.

Listed equipment includes a stainless steel tub, a soil sensor that adjusts the cycle to how dirty the dishes are, and hidden top-edge controls. Its listed drying method is condensation drying.

Rated energy use is 234 kWh per year (24% below the federal limit), and each normal cycle uses 3 gallons of water (40% below the limit). That is better than 49% of the 87 slim 18-inch dishwashers in our database.

Specifications

Summit LDW18NTA specifications
BrandSummit
Model numberLDW18NTA
Size classSlim 18-Inch
Capacity10 place settings
Width17.6 in.
Depth21.7 in.
Tub materialStainless Steel
Drying methodCondensation Dry
Soil sensorYes
Control placementTop (hidden)
Third rackNo
Listed featuresTop Controls
Annual energy use234 kWh/yr
U.S. federal standard (energy)307 kWh/yr
Energy savings vs. federal standard24%
Water use3.00 gal/cycle
U.S. federal standard (water)5.0 gal/cycle
Water savings vs. federal standard40%
Smart / connected featuresNo
ENERGY STAR Most EfficientNo

Safety information

  • Connect the dishwasher to a properly grounded 120 V circuit as specified in the installation instructions — hard-wired or through a grounded outlet, depending on the model and local code.
  • Do not sit, stand or lean on the open door or racks; the door can bend or the cabinet can tip forward.
  • Load sharp knives and utensils with the points down, or lay them flat in a utensil tray or third rack.
  • Keep detergent pods and packets out of children's reach and close the dispenser right after filling; detergent is a poisoning and eye-injury hazard.
  • Steam and very hot water can escape when the door is opened mid-cycle or at the end of a heated cycle. Open the door slowly and let dishes cool before unloading.
  • Use only detergent made for automatic dishwashers. Hand dishwashing liquid creates excess suds that can overflow onto the floor.
  • Wash only items marked dishwasher-safe; thin plastics can melt near a heating element.

Installation and first-time setup

This model is 17.6 in. wide, sized for a standard 18 in. cabinet opening. Rated depth is 21.7 in.; confirm that the opening is deep enough for the unit plus the water, drain and electrical connections behind it. Height is not published in the certification data, so measure the opening from floor to the underside of the countertop and compare it with the manufacturer's specification sheet.

  1. Shut off utilities

    Turn off the circuit breaker and the hot-water supply before removing an old dishwasher or making connections.

  2. Connect the water supply

    Connect the inlet valve to the hot-water line with a new 3/8 in. compression supply line (braided stainless is the most durable choice). Water pressure should fall within the range listed in the installation instructions — commonly 20–120 psi.

  3. Connect the drain

    Route the drain hose to the sink drain or disposer with a high loop up under the countertop or through an air gap, as local plumbing code requires. If you connect to a new garbage disposer, knock out the plug inside its dishwasher inlet first — a forgotten knockout is the most common reason a new dishwasher will not drain.

  4. Make the electrical connection

    Hard-wire the unit in its junction box or use the manufacturer's power-cord kit, following local code. Most dishwashers call for a dedicated 15 A or 20 A, 120 V circuit; use the rating on the installation instructions.

  5. Level and secure

    Adjust the legs until the dishwasher is level front to back and side to side and the door opens and closes without rubbing, then fasten the mounting brackets to the countertop or side cabinets so the unit cannot tip forward.

  6. Test for leaks

    Restore water and power and run a short cycle while watching every connection. Check again after the first full cycle.

Using your dishwasher

Loading for best results

The 10-place-setting rating is a standardized test measure; real capacity depends on the size and shape of your dishes. Scrape off food scraps, but skip pre-rinsing — this model's soil sensor reads how dirty the water is and may choose a lighter wash if dishes go in already clean.

  • Lower rack: plates, pans and serving bowls facing the center spray arm, with the dirtiest surfaces facing the spray.
  • Upper rack: glasses, cups, small bowls and dishwasher-safe plastics, angled so water drains off.
  • Mix forks and spoons handle-down in the basket so they do not nest; knives point-down.
  • Make sure nothing blocks the spray arms from turning or covers the detergent dispenser door.

Detergent and rinse aid

Use automatic-dishwasher detergent — pods, powder or gel — in the amount recommended for your water hardness; too much detergent in soft water can etch glassware. Keep the rinse-aid dispenser topped up, especially if the dishwasher does not use a heating element to dry.

Choosing a cycle

The Normal (or Auto/Eco) cycle is the one used for the certified energy rating of 234 kWh per year. Efficient dishwashers save energy by washing longer at lower temperatures, so cycles of two to three hours or more are normal. Run the kitchen tap until the water is hot before starting, and save Heavy, Sanitize or high-temperature options for loads that need them.

Drying

  • Condensation drying relies on the heat stored in the dishes and tub from the final hot rinse; moisture condenses on the cooler tub walls and drains away. Plastics hold less heat and often stay damp — that is normal.
  • Whatever the method, rinse aid makes the biggest difference, and unloading the bottom rack first keeps drips from cups and bowls off dry dishes.

Care and maintenance

WhenWhat to do
Every month (or weekly with heavy use)Remove and rinse the filter assembly under warm running water; scrub the fine mesh with a soft brush.
Every monthWipe the door gasket, the door edges and the bottom of the door (outside the tub) where splashes collect. Run an empty hot cycle with a dishwasher cleaner approved by the manufacturer.
Every 3 monthsCheck the spray arms for clogged holes; clear them with a toothpick and rinse. Make sure the arms spin freely.
As neededRefill rinse aid when the indicator shows or the dispenser looks low. Clean the air gap cap on the sink, if fitted.
Before a long absenceLeave the door slightly open to prevent odors. In an unheated home at risk of freezing, have the water line and pump drained.

Troubleshooting

Most dishwasher problems come down to loading, the filter or the water supply. Work through the checks below before calling for service; if the display shows a code, look it up in the code table in your manufacturer's manual.

ProblemPossible causeWhat to try
Dishes not getting cleanClogged filter; blocked spray arm; overcrowded racks; water not hot at the start; too little detergent.Clean the filter and spray arms; reload with space between items; run the tap hot before starting; adjust detergent for your water hardness.
Cloudy or spotted glassesHard-water minerals; empty rinse-aid dispenser; etching from too much detergent in soft water.Refill rinse aid; use a detergent with a hard-water booster. Film that will not wipe off with vinegar is permanent etching — cut back on detergent.
Dishes still wet at the endNormal for plastics; no rinse aid; dishes unloaded too soon.Use rinse aid, select the strongest drying option offered, and wait 15–30 minutes after the cycle before unloading.
Water left in the bottomClogged filter; kinked drain hose; blocked air gap or disposer inlet; cycle interrupted.Clean the filter, straighten the hose, clear the air gap, and run the disposer before starting the dishwasher.
Leaking onto the floorWrong detergent causing suds; unit not level; damaged door gasket; loose supply or drain fitting.Use only dishwasher detergent; re-level; inspect the gasket; tighten fittings with the power and water off.
Dishwasher will not startDoor not latched; control lock or delay start active; tripped breaker; supply valve closed.Close the door firmly, cancel the lock or delay, check the breaker and make sure the water valve is open.
Bad odorFood trapped in the filter or around the gasket; door kept closed between uses.Clean the filter and gasket, run a hot cleaning cycle, and leave the door ajar after use.
Cycle seems very longNormal for energy-efficient cycles; cold incoming water; sensor adding time for heavy soil.Long Normal or Eco cycles are expected. Running the tap hot before starting can shorten heat-up time.

Energy use and running costs

The Summit LDW18NTA is rated at 234 kWh per year under the U.S. Department of Energy test procedure, which assumes 215 cycles a year and includes the energy to heat the wash water with an electric water heater. At $0.17 per kWh, that is about $39.78 per year.

At 3 gallons per cycle, the same 215 cycles use about 645 gallons of water a year — roughly $9.67 at $0.015 per gallon for water and sewer. Combined running cost: about $49.46 per year.

The federal limits for this size class are 307 kWh/yr and 5 gallons per cycle. Compared with a model at the limit, this one saves about 73 kWh ($12.41) a year and 430 gallons of water. Its water use per cycle is lower than 69% of comparable models in our database.

If your home has a gas water heater, your electricity cost will be lower than shown and part of the cost shifts to gas. Running full loads and skipping heated dry and high-temperature options are the easiest ways to cut costs further.

Frequently asked questions

How many place settings does the Summit LDW18NTA hold?

It is rated for 10 place settings. Real capacity depends on the size and shape of your dishes and cookware.

What are the dimensions of the Summit LDW18NTA?

The certification data lists a width of 17.6 in. and a depth of 21.7 in. Height is not published there, so confirm it with the manufacturer's specification sheet before ordering.

How much does it cost to run the Summit LDW18NTA?

It is rated at 234 kWh per year and 3 gallons per cycle. At $0.17/kWh and $0.015/gallon, that is about $49.46 a year over 215 cycles.

How does the Summit LDW18NTA dry dishes?

The certification record lists condensation drying as its drying method. Keep the rinse-aid dispenser filled for the best results; plastics may still come out damp, which is normal.

What is the tub made of on the Summit LDW18NTA?

It has a stainless steel tub, which resists staining and odors and holds heat well for drying.

Does the Summit LDW18NTA have a third rack?

A third rack is not listed among its certified features.

Is the Summit LDW18NTA ENERGY STAR certified?

Yes. It appears on the ENERGY STAR certified dishwashers list, with a certification date of October 2023.

Sources and disclaimer

Specifications on this page come from the ENERGY STAR certified dishwashers dataset published by the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency (record certified October 2, 2023), retrieved October 7, 2026.

The setup, operating, maintenance and troubleshooting guidance is written by ManualHarbor's editors for this specific product type and configuration. It is an independent guide — not a reproduction of the manufacturer's manual — and ManualHarbor is not affiliated with Summit. Always follow the safety instructions, installation requirements and warranty terms supplied with your unit, and contact Summit or an authorized service provider for warranty repairs and replacement parts.

Running-cost figures use assumed U.S. average utility prices and are estimates for comparison only. See our editorial methodology for details.